ANybody ever use Mid States MSA Quik-stick HT or HT Pro? Any decent tape will readily stick to the painted surface. thinking peel and stick on the top new sheathing deck as it is low slope 3 in 12, lot of overhanging/nearby shade, and there may be a bit of time before final roof covering is applied. Over the peel and stick went 2x lumber on edge (in this case 2x3) and between it 2' wide sheets of rigid insulation. As fast as you can bounce the gun Is it much better to get foil faced for ability to seal seams? Unfinished tongue and groove boards installed in humid summer conditions can be an ugly mess during the dryness of winter. 2 thick Also the self-adhered underlayment wouldnt be necessary unless it is low-pitch. Primarily concerned with future winter use, keeping heat inside and preventing problems during winter from warm heated air/moisture vapor moving up into roof sandwich and condensing to form ice or to keep sheathing/decking wet leading to rot, etc. Approx 1inch from the top and the bottom. You barely hand nail them to keep them in place. The distinctive wood look of this roof deck type creates a unique appearance that you can see from beneath the roof. shingles have been torn off and roof is weather tight but needs final roof this fall. The only option is to eliminate the back of the groove so you can lift the board directly into place without locking the joint together. We recommend our users to update the browser. Then the rest will need to be cut to fit as you go up the roof using either an offcut as a template or a mitre saw set to whatever the correct angle is. A collection of one thousand construction details organized by climate and house part. You must be a magazine subscriber to access this feature. In fact, T&G boards are most frequently used when the sheathing is visible from the inside such as in cathedral ceilings or in some cabin-style homes, especially if the span of the rafters is greater than 2 feet. how to most economically apply 3-4 of foam board to the exterior side of the roof deck (which is the ceiling) so I can then put a shingle roof over it assume I want to put rigid foam down with spaced out purlins which are screweed down into the rafter beams below? Youre on the right track. For the peel and stick, anything that is not coated with granules can work. It warms my heart that somebody else has a roofing situation with so many parallels to mine. Please see the Cookies section of our, Viewing 15 Check your nails as you go. The underlayment gave the shingle fire ratings. My cross-section is possibly 8-10 inches of foam (Zone 4C). First you need a solid air and vapor barrier. Sounds like your On center 16" and decking should be a nice system. i won't have peel n stick on the wood deck everywhere - but it is several feet of overhang and granular peel n stick is on the deck covering the exterior wall and first foot or so of interior on both sides - and wall is several feet away from the "side" of the roof so wind/3d effects would seem to be null as it's so far "in the field" of underlayment. Complete DIY projects like a pro! Doesnt have to be exact. Try to seal the grooves of the T&G above your exterior wall plate, that small gap times a couple dozen boards equals a big hole. Sign up for our newsletter! Seems the nailing at the tongue is so you dont see the nails but you wont see them since they are on top of roof. Any opinions?>>>. Most guys now have never had to tear off a roof that was put straight to deck. polyiso with the foil is good for sealing? (yes i was a certified installer until I realized it was a waste of money and time and that I had to honor not talking bad about their product or warranty) Im not loyal to any manufacture. In fact, it's OK to install boards that are only a couple of feet long. After you draw the opening, make the cut with a jigsaw and test-fit the board. If you are going with metal roof, you can skip the roof deck, install a synthetic underlayment over this and screw the metal roof into the 2x on edge. Check your local roofing supplier, not a box store. seems the info he asked for was the names of the products,which he provided 2 of,the rest was extra>>>, Did you do your own timerframing, or build from pre-cuts? front plane with coated titanium udl - has 1" of foam on part 1" of fiberboard on upper part where it was still intact to get it flush (t&g deck below that). But if you apply finish before installation, the tongues will be completely finishedno unfinished stripes to appear later! How thick has anybody seen screwing sheathing through into the underlying substrate? screws. Some unvented of the roof assemblies Im seeing refer to allowing the roof to dry inwardly. When nailing the T&G boards I see a lot of videos saying you need to nail at the tongueif you will not see the top of the boards (since they are facing up to the sky do I need to still nail at the tongue or can I simply make sure the joint is tight and just nail into the studs on the top surface of the boards? Would you mind sharing what you ended up doing? I am installing 3/4 x 5-1/4 T&G boards on the roof studs on top of the structure. The best advice I ae is to cull any board with splits, wanes, or large knots. We are planning to put down r15 "nailable base" (https://www.rmax.com/nailable-base-3) over the T&G secured with structural screws, a high temp / class a peel and stick, then standing seam steel. Also, the battens will somewhat flatten out uneven ceilings. Under a 5/12 pitch. If you must seal the seams of fiber faced roofing insulation, the easiest is to paint the edges with latex primer. good stuff guys. They can fall anywhere because the tongue-and-groove joints support one another. The better method is always to seal the roof deck bellow and not rely on the foam for air sealing. Think about squirrels. Old school with boards is to butt to the inside of the rafter and use the outside of the rafter closest to the end as your saw guide. It would need to be 'walkable' the same as the rest of the roof but there must be a better way than wasting a bunch of foam - I'd bury the scraps in this part I'd think plus 2x stock and sheathing to go across to the insulated part. With shingles, you would need a new roof deck, in that case I would skip the 2x on edge and screw the new deck into the rafters with long fasteners. It also helps bridge for a smoother finish. You can either apply finish to the raw wood on each chamfer before nailing up each board or touch up the entire shiplap ceiling after it's finished. Have found roofing material supply house with good quote on poly iso but it is fiberglass faced. Hold the board in place next to the box and mark the sides. (of 18 total). The scrim is fiberglass reinforced and so you will itch, I can sleep in fiberglass insulation and this stuff bugged me. In zone 4 you don't have to go crazy on insulation, more is laways better but even 3"-4" is fine. (AC is not present it is very damp and cool there in summer and assume 70s family spent a lot of money on elec heat with this scant ceiling insulation.). With Ceiling Fans, You Get What You Pay For. If there's a gap, tap on the end with a block to close it. you dont need to nail the 1x6 TG from the top. Yes, that would be the fastest procedure while installing 4x8 sheets. will not be able to meet new code requirements for R value but would like to do better than the old fiberboard. but walking the metal roof would be walking on the foam under the metal. Composite roofing is not water-proof. I am trying to get as close as possible to code required R-value but the foam sandwich is starting to get really thick. 4. can plywood deck sit on the foam? Break out the spudding bars. (2) You have to seat the tongues and grooves together, and they don't always want to marry. Myself Id sheet the 2 larger sides first, letting the boards go past the hips then cutting all at once using a skillsaw and chalkline. That is old school way to assure the boards are kept in their groove. The Use of Tongue and Groove Roof Deck The good thing is it is suitable to use not only in the exterior but also the interior part of your house. 2a. Mike H wrote: It needs 2 ring shank 8 penny nails. I need an air/moisture vapor barier applied to the top side of roof deck to stop any moisture from moving through and at that point I need it to be insulated enough so it doesnt condense there? Once you get a board seated, go ahead and add a nail or two. Open soffit homes will normally have t & G and we use a short nail. Can you use tongue and groove for roof sheathing? 30lb felt? I will use the 1 x 6 T & G as my decking and use the 16 ga nails (w/nail gun) into the studs. For small overhangs, this is not worth the trouble but for something like a 300sqft porch, it can save a bit of insulation cost. Much of fiberboard had soaked up moisture/keeping moisture in contact onto pine deck though felt paper had done good job amazing it hadnt rotted through more. Do I need to divide foam into 2 layers so no wood to wood thermal bridges are present? Before we started venting the roof, or installing metal, shingles would burn out in 12 years or less, in Ohio.>>>. THanks Akos. Thanks for the input/ideas/experience. The composite shingles you are saying use a 7/8 to 1" nail length so it does not show underneath correct? The boards properly with a nail gun. For an entire space, ponder the possibility that it may 'ever' be brought into the conditioned space. It will turn into a potato chip if it gets wet, but once screwed down it can deal with limited moisture. Really need to nail down the moisture and condensation possibilities here it is likely not used in forseeable future much in winter so indoor heat and cooking moisture isnt an issue but suppose it could be sold or used differently in next couple decades. then 4" foam staggered 2" layers, then 2x's on flat then cdx then top underlayment. I'm thinking I may do two layers of foam - then lay 2x's on flat on top of the foam transverse to the beams down below ( running parallel to the ridge/gutter) using 16-fter's so plenty of places to hit the rafter beams on 48" centers with 6-8" screws. I know it's not ideal but need to move forward quickly with sub/materials/me being out of state - needing to swoop in and direct/weather. Its always advisable to put underlayment to keep the shingles from sticking to the deck. How do I make sure any interior winter moisture does not migrate up into the roof and condense where it can wet the roof boards unseen and lead to ice dams, or unseen wet plywood/deck/rot in the roof sandwich on the exterior side. Im doing something similar in Oregon. But installing 1x6 tongue and groove is different. My house has large overhangs, and it ended up convenient to leave a gap at the edges since I was putting plywood over. You don't need rigid at the overhangs provided you put in 2x on edge at the correct spacing to match your snow load. Then put new plywood sheathing on top of this and peel and stick and then shingle or metal roof (budget depending)? I have the certainteed installers folder, behind me on the shelf. Think what you like, but as I said in my second post, I thought it was as simple as hitting a "2" instead of a "1", which led to the 28, when it should have been 18. Experiment and use a nail that wont penetrate all the way through. The roofer wants to bend the steel end flashing over to cover the exposed foam on the edges down to the existing fascia (seems durable). (3) Tongue and groove isn't always flat, so you have to force the boards together to get them seated. Tongue & Groove Boards T&G roof decking, however, looks classy and rich. One of the best tricks to get a professional-looking installation is to add a 45-degree bevel, called a "chamfer." - then i'll put peel n stick over. Not more than 10% to be less than 10 ft. What are the best earplugs for noise reduction? You'll remove staples left over from shipping wrap, cut away any splits and get clean, square edges. A 15- or 16-gauge brad nailer with 2-in. The platinum has a permanence of around 0.05. I also fabricated a facia support from pressure treated 2x, on edge, lagged to the roof. I found this article helpful https://www.finehomebuilding.com/pdf/021224084.pdf, Still trying to figure out the eave and roof edge details. 5 Tips on Taking Control of Your Finances, How to Make the Most of Halloween in 2022, 7 Reasons to reate Single-Page Applications. Just make sure to tape all the seams. If you start crushing the tongue too badly to get the next board seated, grab a short chunk of waste to use as a sacrificial board. There's no reason to try to join butt joints directly over framing members. Learn how to accelerate your business goals with this eBook. I've got some lumpiness over the whole roof - from some plywood repairs and overlays over some weakened areas - so I may just lay the foam down solid/lapping without 2x's - two layers staggered and taped/sealed. You do want to cover any felt with some titanium. If you do it properly, you won't have any nail heads showing or holes to fill. Question- was your peel and stick a vapor barrier breatheable. I have. this side seems very air- sealed. Thanks Akos - excellent points and info I will take in/use. Make sure the roof is covered with an underlayment before any weather hits and the shingles go on. Generally , Certainteed recommends that underlayment be installed, but does not require it except as noted below. Installing tongue and groove walls can be a real workout. 1. Just cut out the bad spot, use the parts elsewhere and take another swing at it. Sheet decking OSB (oriented strand board) is the most common type of decking used on roofs today. But it is also more difficult to install because the tight-fitting joints dont always go together easily. OSB is made of interwoven strands of wood bonded with adhesive. If that is the case, look for a peel and stick with butyl or acrylic adhesive. Other drawings I've seen show stacked 2x4s on the edges. The secret is to scribe and/or mark as much as possible in place on the shiplap ceiling rather than to try to measure everything perfectly. Can I put composite roofing material directly onto 1 x 6 tongue and groove roof decking. My goal is to seal it at the roof deck so no moist air can get up into my foam sandwich with cdx on top of that. Install self-adhered underlayment. There is no point of peel and stick over any underlayment. 2022 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved. https://www.msaroof.com/our-products/steep-slope/self-adhered-underlayments. I'm not a fan of rolled coatings, you are dependent too much on how well it is applied and the quality of the substrate for it to work properly. If it doesn't fit, you can tweak the cut. trying to get it re-roofed and put back some amount of rigid foam on top of the roof deck to replace where the fiberboard was removed and to better insulate the interior ceiling/rooms. Also, Thanks for sharing your project. This is primarily for heating season - should I want XPS over polyiso - since it is the cold outside - 0-20 degree F temperatures I'm looking to insulate against? Hello- (sorry this is long) will clarify in subsequent posts. Sounds right - good layer of seald peel and stick on the roof deck to stop air/heat/moisture leakage up into the foam/sheathing sandwich from interior in winter. But it can also happen at shiplap ceiling protrusions or even at projecting inside corners. We used composite pa>>>, theroofinggod wrote: 1970s home in mountains of NC climate zone 4 I think. There are certainly thermal and moisture advantages to continuous insulation (vs the thermal bridging/leaks that occurs with all the foam set between 2x lumber on edge). having to buy 2 different lengths for two layers is of no consequence. Spell Check? I would say to use a 7/8" - 1" nail if you are not wanting to see it from below. Reclaimed iso board, or inquire at a local commercial roofing supply for iso board. this side has had full elastomeric coating and every cap nail sealed with flashing tape to protect it while it awaited final foam and roof. Or if I do decide to go metal I could embed the 2x's in the top layer of foam so the metal can go on the foam with 2x's flush on 24" centers,etc. They'll look great, and you won't waste any expensive wood. Very funny event with foam spraying out the other side of the wall. Plus, if you cut the boards so they fall directly over framing, you'll waste a lot of material. roof was leaking from bad vent boots and cheap shingles job from the 90s pneumatics through shingles onto fiberboard deck was not good nailing base (1970s shingles hand nailed through fiberboard into 1.5 t&g roof deck/ceiling). in helping my family get it re-roofed I discovered ceiling is the roof deck tongue and groove boards with exposed 44 clear pine rafter beams inside on 48 centers on the interior there is no attic space no vent space, no where to insulate inside interior wood is attractive ceiling pine log cabin look not air or vapor tight. Another plus: You can run the battens either parallel or perpendicular to the ceiling framing, depending on which way you want the tongue and groove to run. Warranty from the manufacture may vary, but most will require it. I pay 61 dollars a roll retail and it covers 200 sq feet. should I peel and stick over the cap nailed #30 felt and titanium udl (cap nailed version not peel and stick) - or is the roof sealant over that enough?. You are correct. Answer for your chance to win a pizza, donuts or RCS Gift Box! Need to keep it simple with available local crews to get this done in next 2 months using conventional roof/framing/metal crews I can find nearby. https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=22528. You must be logged in to reply to this topic. I've installed grace of old pine T&G and had no issues, seems to be more of a problem if the peel and stick gets hot. If you put a good underlayment, you should have no problems. Dont put too much thought in to it. About the only way to do this with T&G with with a peel and stick. In fact, it's almost always the case with the very last board. Iso R-values changed, but nowhere near that much. the modified sbs adhesive - sap interaction - can happen with 48 year old t&g pine boards? You could also opt for paint to finish your boards for awhite shiplap ceiling look. Another thought/question - I have a large portion of my roof that is over an upstairs porch - so ceiing boards of the porch are the roof deck - but other than making sure the new added foam comes past the exterior wall - I don't need to waste all that money on foam panels placed above the exterior open porch below - can i just 'shim out' to match depth/thickness of whatever I do on the roof over the interior house - so it comes flush with that? nails is the best choice for fastening, although an 18-gauge nailer will do the job, too. Its very common for us to see 1x6 t & G and shiplap on the older homes, into the 80s. How to Install a Ceiling Fan Mounting Bracket. Interesting how we are coming up with the same kind of solutions to this tongue and groove ceiling problem. And When you say Composite, i am thinking some weird plastics/vinyl of some kind. The scrim covered roofing board is harder to work with but much cheaper. One other thing. would XPS be ok/better for cold temps + more locally available? some photos attached to give general layout/interior ceiling etc. Create a Sliding Storage System On the Garage Ceiling. TRI-BUILT High-quality products that deliver professional results! Part of the deck has titanium and #30 felt on it - part of that has been coated in a an elastomeric roof sealant (was buying some time after tearing off leaking roof and saturated old fiber board insulation). The V-groove will mask small inconsistencies in butt joints. Or you only see a small number of tips barely poking through. Don't beat yourself up trying to preserve a pristine tongueit gets buried in the joint anyway. If you have a lot of sap, go for a peel and stick that has either butyl or acrylic based adhesive. Siga Wigluv, 3M seaming tape or 8067?) Just buy screws that won't go all the way through, foam screws are super cheap. Its a pain in the AOC. You should be fine. You will have to buy it by the pallet, but you will use that much.

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